Artfully repurposed industrial milestones and a rejuvenated esplanade define Cardiff—a city skilled in reinvention
The heart of Cardiff beats from its docks. The remarkable transformation of the docking area was instrumental in converting the burgeoning town into a thriving hub, rich with the iron, coal, and steel of South Wales. This transformed Cardiff from a rustic settlement to the refined metropolis we see today. The ebb and flow of the industry might've marked the cityscape with occasional grime and decay but also gave birth to a largely Victorian aesthetic. The grandeur of the city is abundant with its monuments of prosperity like the richly designed Gothic revival style castle and the majestic Neoclassical National Museum, which are integral parts of the city's charm.
Moreover, relics from the Industrial Revolution are deftly repurposed, adding layers to the cityscape. Take the majestic Pierhead Building for example, once the hub of dock offices, now serves as the premises for the Welsh Parliament. Similarly, the erstwhile coal exchange has been innovatively transformed into a buzzing restaurant and hotel complex. This ability to artfully repurpose and rejuvenate is a prominent trait of Cardiff's personality. The aptest example of this trait is Cardiff Bay—what was once a marshland now stands as one of the most impressive urban waterfront developments in Europe. With the city's seamless evolution into a sleek shopping paradise, a lively music hub, and the leading city for craft beer, Cardiff consistently surprises with its capacity for transformation and reinvention. The city perpetually teases its visitors with the question—what will Cardiff morph into next?
Uncover Cardiff: Embracing a New Reality
The gates of Cardiff Castle are now wide open, welcoming guests without charge as part of its response to the changes brought by the Covid-19 pandemic. Visitors are given the gift of time and space to leisurely savour the lofty 12th-century keep and the stunning Gothic Revivalist castle, up close in their emerald courtyard.
Pavement café culture in Cardiff has blossomed incredibly. Duke Street, once a bustling road right outside the castle, has transformed into a peaceful, pedestrian and bike-only area. Its central strip now comes alive with al fresco dining, offering a taste of the city's vibrant culinary scene.
Should your post-lockdown exploration plans involve open spaces over indoor facilities, Cardiff is ready to surprise you. Many of the city's must-visit spots are predominantly outdoors. St Fagans National History Museum stands as a prime example of this, where you can soak in its fascinating sights without the need for indoor navigation. Moreover, this museum is one of the biggest open-air museums in Europe, boasting more than three dozen original buildings moved from various parts of Wales. So, as you step into Cardiff, you're not just stepping into a city but into the robust and longstanding history of Wales.
Day One: Unveiling Cardiff's Charms
The Morning Charm
Launch your Cardiff adventure at the bustling Cardiff Market. Immersed in the city´s rich cultural diversity, the market exhibits a lively atmosphere shimmering with fun and energy. Set within a Victorian architectural marvel, a turn into the aisles unfolds an engaging interaction with the vivacious vendors. A must-visit is the longstanding Ashton’s Fishmongers, operating here since the mid-19th century. However, the gastronomic delight doesn't end there. Treat your taste buds with delectable roadside munchies from Noglü, offering a variety of international gluten-free delicacies, from Spanish churros to Colombian arepas.
Don't fill up too much though, as Cardiff´s burgeoning coffee scene awaits you. Make your way along St Mary Street to Uncommon Ground. This café not only roasts its own coffee beans, but also has a selection of mouth-watering cakes to further sweeten your Cardiff exploration. Interestingly, the cafe is situated in Royal Arcade, a beautifully conserved Victorian shopping zone, with the neighbouring Morgan Arcade, collectively housing an array of independent shops. Spend your remaining morning delighting in these treasure troves of unique finds.
AFTERNOON
When you get peckish, saunter north towards Cardiff Castle (Duke Street; 029 2087 8100). The winsome courtyard is free-of-charge and contains a couple of restaurants where you can sit at as you admire the well-preserved Norman motte-and-bailey keep and the Victorian flight-of-fancy castle. Do take a tour, though, if they are running: the Gothic Revivalist castle’s opulently furnished rooms are replete with intricate detail and intriguing stories. You could also hold off for a late lunch: it would be worthwhile.
Walk west on Duke Street along the outer castle wall, studded with 19th-century animal sculptures, to the entrance of Bute Park and Pettigrew Tearooms (West Lodge, Bute Park; 029 2023 5486), a castellated gatehouse renowned for its afternoon teas and with outside seating overlooking pretty park greenery.
It is now mid-afternoon, but there is time for a pop into the palatial neoclassical National Museum (Gorsedd Gardens; 0300 111 2333). The post-impressionist art is some of Europe’s very best, but the ceramics section and the Welsh art are wonderful: be sure to admire Tenby-born Augustus John’s portrait of Dylan Thomas, Wales’ most famous writer.
THE NIGHTLIFE
Delve into the heart of Cardiff’s flourishing microbrewery culture with a visit to Tiny Rebel (25 Westgate St; 029 2039 9557), centrally tucked in the city. Immerse yourself in the relaxed ambiance of this chic industrial setting, with bare-brick walls, whilst you indulge in the exotic flavours of their signature milkshake IPA, Five Dollar Shake, noted for its creamy tropical richness.
Strolling a short distance from there, you will encounter Pasture (High Street; 07511 217422). Here, their expert in-house butchers select premium meat cuts from the rich farms of the southwest, grilled to perfection over cherry wood to infuse a distinctive flavour. The combination of smart booth seating, a stylishly sparse interior, and the intoxicating aroma of grilled meats creates an ambience that's vibrantly engaging.
Purposefully hidden away, Cardiff's notable Prohibition-style bars are a must-visit. Finish your evening at Dead Canary (Barrack Lane; 029 2023 1263). Famed for their blend of intriguing and potent concoctions, this bar provides an experience that will captivate your sense of adventure in a unique and memorable way.
Commencing the Second Day
The Break of Dawn
Cardiff's appeal isn't solely in its bustling city center, but also in its alluring outskirts. Today, embark on an early morning journey, either by driving or boarding a 32A/320 bus from Cardiff Bridge, to experience Wales' most captivating historical offering: the St Fagans National Museum (St Fagans; 0300 111 2333).
In the verdant environs of the Elizabethan-era St Fagans Castle, stretching across a sprawling 100 acres, Welsh culture comes alive via a collection of unique buildings meticulously re-constructed, piece by piece. This authentic Welsh landscape spans from ancient, circular homesteads to a distinguished medieval prince’s court, and extends to a 20th-century laborers' hub for miners. Such a rich tapestry of Welsh history demands at least a morning to fully appreciate. Take along a delicious picnic from Wally’s Delicatessen (Royal Arcade; 029 2022 9265) to savor amidst this scenic backdrop, enhancing your experience.
AFTERNOON
Back central, take the train from Queen Street to Cardiff Bay. This dramatic, far-reaching waterfront regeneration is rendered all the more impressive because until the late 1990s what you see was all unsightly marshland and decaying industry. Showing off a shoreline over 10km, Europe’s largest waterfront development is festooned with many of Cardiff’s formative buildings. These include the ruddy-bricked late-Victorian Pierhead Building with its distinctive clock tower earning it the moniker ‘Big Ben of Wales’, once the Bute Dock Company HQ and now belonging to the Senedd (Welsh Parliament).
Then there is the Wales Millennium Centre (Bute Place; 029 2063 6464), a fascinating 21st-century arts centre and events space and a building constructed entirely from Welsh materials, most noticeably slate, which clads the exterior in multi-coloured strata, sourced from different slate quarries across Wales. Further south, another landmark is pearl-white, 1868-built Norwegian Church (Harbour Drive; 029 2087 7959), where Cardiff’s best-known literary son Roald Dahl once worshipped.
But it is the overall bay vista that is most special and for this, continue south to cross the engineering feat that made Cardiff Bay possible, the Barrage (029 2087 7900) that impounded water from nearby rivers to transmogrify former mudflats into today’s gleaming blue bay and its glitzy development. Walk or bike across the Barrageto Penarth for memorable views city-wards and seawards or book into Cardiff International White Water(Watkiss Way; 029 2082 9970) to paddle about the bay in a kayak.
Evening Pleasures
If you've only got 48 hours in Cardiff, your taste palette has to be the ultimate beneficiary. Make sure you explore the thriving culinary scene of Pontcanna, often painted in vibrant hues of green. One must-visit spot is the warm and inviting La Cuina (11 Kings Road; 029 2019 0265) for a memorable Catalonian gastronomic experience. Remember to cheers to your time in Cardiff with their unmatched collection of wines.
The High-End Retreat
The New House Country Hotel, sitting majestically north of the capital, injects a Georgian charm into your trip. Every detail here beautifully echoes the period it represents, establishing a grand aesthetic. Enjoy heart-stopping views that merge the urban skyline of Cardiff with the endless stretch of the sea. The rooms blend tradition and modernity, the cuisine is simple yet expertly executed, and the historic marvel of Caerphilly is within reach.
Chic Urban Retreat
Experience a taste of Wales like never before in Cardiff's Hotel Indigo's 122 uniquely designed rooms, inspired by native Welsh traditions and distinct motifs. This modern, chic haven doesn't only provide a fresh take on plush lodgings, but it also boasts the famed Marco Pierre White restaurant – a dining staple that's been quickly tugging on the culinary heartstrings of the city folk.
Affordable Haven
Nestled amidst the hustle and bustle of Newport Road, Cardiff, lays the distinctive Hotel One Hundred. This cherished Edwardian townhouse has metamorphosed into a unique and rare boutique B&B in the city. The nostalgic allure of the era has been beautifully preserved, blending seamlessly with contemporary hues and textiles, all constituting an incomparable value for your money.
If you're an enthusiast of vinyl records, Cardiff has two impressive stores waiting for you. The largest one in Wales, Kelly’s Records, is situated in Cardiff Market and can be contacted at 029 2037 7355. Additionally, the city also houses the world’s most established record shop, Spiller’s Records, nestled in the Morgan Arcade, contact number 029 2022 4905.
If gourmet delights are what you seek, Wally’s Delicatessen located in Royal Arcade (029 2022 9265) is a must-visit. The deli owes its fame to an exquisite assortment of gin from the rich palette of Wales’ traditional distilleries. Another local delicacy you must sample are their award-winning Welsh cheeses.
Contrary to the well-established perception that Wales is consistently damp, Cardiff stands proud as one of the warmest and sunniest spots in the region. In fact, Cardiff citizens love to mention how their beloved city enjoys more sunshine hours on average than Milan. However, given the array of outdoor activities this city has to offer, it's always wise to be prepared for sudden showers and varying temperature changes, regardless of the season.
Cardiff is also known to host spectacular events throughout the year. Sadly, not all could be held this year, but traditionally these include the thrilling Six Nations rugby matches held in February/March, the national celebration of St David's Day on March 1, the colorful visual treat of the RHS Flower Show in Bute Park in April, and the culinary delights of the Cardiff Food & Drink Festival in July. Music enthusiasts are drawn in by the multi-venue alternative music festival Sŵn held in October. Interestingly, for sun-seekers, July is traditionally the month with the most sunshine.
Essential information
Cardiff Tourist Information Office (029 2087 8100). Now relocated to within the grounds of the castle, this is Cardiff’s main source of tourist information.
Getting around
Walk with ease across the mostly pedestrianised centre, and between central Cardiff, Pontcanna, Cathays or Roath.
Take a train (tfwrail.wales) between Cardiff Queen Street in the city centre and Cardiff Bay.
Good bus connections serve Pontcanna and St Fagans from Duke Street/Castle Street.
The main taxi operator is Dragon Taxis. Fares are reasonable, with a run from Cardiff Castle to Cardiff Bay costing £4-5.
With the Principality Stadium in central Cardiff, beware rugby match days when the city invariably becomes manic and gridlocked.